Tamagoyaki

When I spent a month in Japan after college, I became obsessed with bento box lunches. Tamago sushi was a common side dish in them. Slightly sweet, rich and creamy, these rolled eggs, sliced ​​to reveal a beautiful swirl inside, were placed on a rectangular bed of sushi rice and wrapped in a strip of nori.

Years later, I learned to make the same Japanese egg omelet called tamagoyaki without the rice and nori. While I’m not an expert on Japanese cooking, I set out to make it at home and I’m here to share what I’ve learned with you!

What is Tamagoyaki?

Tamagoyaki is a rolled egg omelette lightly sweetened with sugar and seasoned with soy sauce, mirin and dashi. Tamago means “egg” in Japanese and yaki means “grill”.

There are many variations of tamagoyaki in Japan depending on the region. Some simply season it with salt, soy sauce, and sugar. Others add mirin and dashi broth. Some add fillings like seaweed, salmon, or cheese.

This recipe is for a dashimaki tamagoyaki with mirin and dashi, an umami-rich broth made from kombu and bonito flakes. I cheat and use an instant dashi powder called Hondashi. It’s not as complex or flavorful as traditional dashi stock, but that’s fine for this recipe. Find it in any Japanese grocery store, well-stocked Asian market, or online.

In Japan, tamagoyaki is made so often that a special pan called the kotobuki tamagoyaki is used. It’s a long rectangular pan with curved sides that makes turning, rolling, and sliding the egg much easier.

To be honest, you don’t need Kotobuki Tamagoyaki. Any small frying pan with a non-stick coating will work. But if you fall in love with tamagoyaki and want to make it often, you can easily find one for $15-20.

Brown or not brown

To me, the ideal tamagoyaki is uniformly yellow, not browned, and with a creamy, custard-like texture. Some people will brown it slightly, which accentuates the swirls inside. Keep in mind that tanning creates a less delicate texture, but it’s your personal preference!

In Mastering the Art of the Japanese Home Cooking, acclaimed chef Masaharu Morimoto, himself the iron chef, lightly browns his tamagoyaki. It’s hard to argue with Chef Morimoto!

Things I Learned About Making Tamagoyaki

Making tamagoyaki isn’t difficult, but it takes a little practice to roll it perfectly. The good news is, the more you do it, the easier it becomes. Here are some things I’ve learned:

• Cook the egg slowly over medium-low heat so it doesn’t get too dark and the consistency stays pudding-like. A little patience goes a long way.
• While they are still slightly undercooked, roll the eggs on top. Start rolling too early? They are too delicate and tear. Too late and they’ll be tanned and stiff.
• Don’t worry if the first roll snaps, creases, or spins weirdly. It’s difficult because there isn’t enough batter to turn. Just keep rolling – by the second or third layer it will work out.
• Use a thin fish or pancake spatula. Traditionally, Japanese cooks use chopsticks because that’s what they do naturally! But if you’re not that skilled at using them – the sharp tips could tear or turn the eggs unevenly – start with a spatula and switch to chopsticks as you get more practice. Or not. It’s your call.
• The batter may feel too thin and tender. Reduce the dashi stock to just 2 or 3 tablespoons instead of 1/4 cup. The tamagoyaki will be less custard, but that’s okay. Once you get more practice, you can add up to 6 tablespoons of dashi stock for a creamier texture and greater umami flavor.
• It’s not traditional, but I add salt and sugar while I’m beating the eggs to mix them more thoroughly.
• When beating the eggs, create as few bubbles as possible to keep the mixture even and smooth – you don’t want it to be fluffy or bubbly. I use a fork to move the mixture back and forth and around, not up and down. Pop any big bubbles with your fork.
• Last tip: For an evenly yellow and smooth tamagoyaki, pour the batter through a fine sieve into the pan. It will catch about a tablespoon of protein that hasn’t been incorporated into the batter, which you can discard.

A few swaps that work

This recipe has a small list of ingredients: eggs, mirin, soy sauce, dashi stock, salt, and sugar. I do not recommend replacing any of them if possible. However, here are a few swaps that might work.

• mirin: This is a sweet rice wine that is indispensable in Japanese cuisine. You can use 1 teaspoon of white wine and increase the sugar by 1/4 teaspoon.
• soy sauce: Traditional tamagoyaki uses usukuchi, a light-colored Japanese soy sauce that adds flavor without darkening the mix. It’s hard to find, so I use either regular or low-sodium soy sauce.
• Dashi stock: If you can’t find instant dashi powder, use 1/4 cup low-sodium chicken broth. This will radically change the taste, but it will still turn out something delicious.

fill it in!

There are endless ways to stuff tamagoyaki. Sprinkle with the filling just before rolling the eggs. Here are a few suggestions:

• Chopped nori
• Finely chopped boiled spinach
• Finely chopped ham
• Cooked tuna in flakes
• Chopped green onions or chives
• Finely chopped boiled carrots, onions or celery
• Any grated cheese of your choice

How to serve tamagoyaki

Tamagoyaki is often sliced ​​and served with grated daikon on the side. You can eat it plain, dipped in soy sauce, or eat it with a bowl of rice. Make tamago sushi by placing a slice of tamagoyaki on top of sushi rice and wrapping it with a strip of nori.

You can also serve tamagoyaki as part of a Japanese-inspired meal for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. Here are some recipes that will inspire you:

• Teriyaki Steak
• Salmon with sake and ginger glaze
• Teriyaki Chicken Breast
• Soba noodle soup

Referrals!

Here are some books and websites that I found helpful during my research:

• “The Gaijin Cookbook” by Ivan Orkin
• “Japanese Peasant Food” by Nancy Singleton Hachisu
• Just a cookbook
• No prescriptions