Miso Soup

Miso soup is a traditional Japanese soup that is often served as an appetizer in Japanese restaurants. In Japanese homes, it is commonly served for breakfast with a bowl of rice and a simple protein such as fried fish.

My version is light and smoky, but also comforting, savory, slightly smoky, a bit salty like the sea, with just a hint of sweetness. Cubes of silken tofu bulk up the soup to make it more filling, while scallions add some freshness.

This recipe is a pretty classic take apart from my addition of sesame oil and the spicy Japanese dried spice mix called Shichimi Togarashi, which is a mixture of red chili powder, Japanese pepper, orange peel, black and white sesame seeds, ginger, and seaweed powder.

What’s in miso soup?

The base of miso soup is a broth called dashi, which is made from strips of dried seaweed (kombu) and dried smoked bonito flakes (katsuobushi). Miso, a salty, fermented soybean paste, gives the broth that palatability called umami, giving it a cloudy appearance that settles as it sits.

The simple version of miso soup served in restaurants is sprinkled with scallions and includes diced silken tofu and another, much thinner type of seaweed called wakame.

What’s the best miso for a soup?

I like to use white miso in my soup as I prefer my soup for both the density and flavor.

However, there is no hard and fast rule as to which type to use. It’s not uncommon to use red miso for a heartier soup or a mix of white and red, smooth or chunky. Because of its shorter fermentation time, white miso has a mild and sweet flavor and is best used in light soups, salad dressings, and seafood marinades.

Saltier, more robust, and earthier with its longer fermentation, red miso is used for heavier soups and stews and marinades for meat.

There’s even a miso paste that has dashi already incorporated, so all you have to do is add hot water. I once asked a Japanese friend to recommend a brand of miso and she told me to buy the most expensive one I could afford. When looking through the types of miso in the Japanese market, I usually check the ingredients and buy one that has only non-GMO soybeans, rice, and salt.

How to make Dashi

Dashi is a staple in the arsenal of Japanese cuisine.

It is made by soaking kombu, thick strips of dried seaweed, in hot water. The kombu is removed and then katsuobushi, smoked bonito flakes (fish flakes), are added to the water for infusion and then strained. This resulting pale yellow broth, with its smoky and slightly salty flavor, is the backbone of much Japanese cuisine.

In addition to being used in clear soups like miso soup, dashi is also used in dipping sauces, savory egg custards, and for poaching or braising. After making dashi, it can be stored in the fridge for up to a week.

I first learned how to make miso soup while assisting Japanese cookbook author Elizabeth Andoh on a cooking demonstration of Japanese dishes that focused on the basic ingredients of the kitchen.

She made dashi the traditional way and showed us beautiful large pink shavings of smoked bonito. She also showed us instant dashi granules and pre-measured packets of much smaller and darker bonito flakes. There is no shame in making your life easier by using them as they are used regularly in Japanese homes.

What is dashi powder?

Dashi powder is to dashi what chicken bouillon is to chicken broth. Instant dashi is made from dried bonito powder and extract, salt, sugar, and other spices and additives. Often it contains MSG. (Note that dried seaweed is a natural source of MSG.)

Dashi powder is used by either dissolving it in water or sprinkling it directly into a bowl during cooking, just like you would any other dried spice. It’s a very handy option when you only need a small amount of dashi. The instant dashi brand I see the most is Hondashi.

While kombu, bonito flakes, wakame and miso are becoming more common in well-stocked supermarkets, I prefer to buy these items at a Japanese market. They are also sold in Chinese and Korean markets, but usually not as varied as in Japanese markets.

Tips and tricks for making miso soup

Miso soup is easy to make, but here is some important information to know before you start cooking:

• Many cooks rinse off the seaweed or gently wipe away the white, powdery residue with a damp cloth. I skip this step because this white residue, called mannitol, provides a lot of umami and flavors the soup.
• Remove the seaweed from the water before it boils, otherwise it can impart a bitter taste and make the broth slimy.
• Once the kelp and bonito flakes are removed from the dashi, it’s safe to bring to a boil. Don’t boil the soup after adding the miso or you’ll lose a lot of the nutrients. A source of probiotics, miso contains choline, niacin, folic acid and vitamin K.
• To dissolve the miso without leaving large lumps, dip a large, fine-mesh sieve into the dashi and whisk the miso into the broth in the sieve. If your miso is rather chunky and leftover bits (from soybeans) remain in the strainer, feel free to scrape it into the soup.
• You can also use a fork to dissolve the miso in a bowl or mug with some dashi, then pour the mixture back into the pot.

Exchange and substitution of ingredients

While my recipe is for the classic white miso soup preparation, here are some other options you might want to try:

• Use red miso or a combination of red and white miso for a heartier, richer soup.
• Use dashi granules in a pinch for a much faster, almost instant release.

Miso Soup Variations

There are countless variations of miso soup, depending on the region and personal preferences. Go beyond the classic miso soup and try these versions:

• Make a vegan version by substituting dried mushrooms and their soaking liquid for the bonito flakes.
• For a savory version, cook veggies like carrots, potatoes, and kabocha squash in the dashi before stirring in the miso.
• Wilt vegetables like watercress or spinach in the soup before adding the miso.

Serving suggestions for miso soup

Typically, after a stretch of greasy, rich, and heavy food, I like to serve my family large bowls of miso soup accompanied by a small bowl of rice to help balance our diet. Otherwise I do it like the Japanese and serve smaller bowls of soup with rice and some fried mackerel or salmon and a simple sautéed vegetable. I’ve also been known to pair it with kimchi.

How to store miso soup

Miso soup is best eaten right away, otherwise it loses its freshness. If you have leftovers, it still tastes good, just not as good. When reheating, be sure to remove the pot from the heat as soon as it simmers, as many of the nutrients in the miso are lost when the miso is cooked. Eat it within 3 days.

Alternatively, the dashi can be prepared ahead of time and stored in the refrigerator for up to a week. When ready to serve, bring the dashi to a boil, then whisk the miso into the soup.

More ways to enjoy miso!

• Winter chicken salad with spicy miso dressing
• Grilled oysters with spicy miso butter
• Steak Noodle Shells with Miso Lime Dressing
• Fried Japanese eggplant with ginger and miso
• Chicken wings with miso glaze